Fair market value has been defined as:
"That price, at which a seller is willing to sell
and a buyer is willing to buy, both parties being knowledgeable about the
property, and neither party being under any time pressure to act."
Because buyers and sellers each have different motivations for their
actions, however, prices paid and accepted for property can and do vary
dramatically from the so-called norm of "fair
market value." While a theoretical
"fair market value" exists for all properties, real life
dictates that there will be many deviations from the price level.
- I'm looking at a used truck. How can I tell whether it's worth what
the seller is asking for it?
- An old truck has been passed down in our family. The VIN says it's a
Mercury M-1. Is it really?
- An insurance company wants to know an approximate value of a
restored Mercury M-1 Panel.
Although people specifically ask for "the value" of an item, used
items, antiques, and collectibles do not have fixed values.
"An item is worth what someone is willing to pay for
it at the time, under the specific circumstances". Value is
determined by market forces. Price guides to antiques record what items
have sold for in the past and thus serve as rough guides to present value.
An appraiser estimates the current market value of an item based on
examination of the item, knowledge of the market, experience, and records
of past sales of similar items.
Buying a Vintage Mercury Truck:
The early Mercury trucks are a good choice for a first collector
truck. There are many informal car shows across the U.S. and Canada
where you can "show and swap", and get advice from other enthusiasts. The
trucks are relatively easy to drive and maintain. Certainly as a 30 -
60
year old truck there will always be the unexpected, but generally speaking
a #3 condition truck or better should not present major problems. Ford
used the same engine (block) and other components from the truck for many
years in different models of trucks and cars. In some cases parts will be
more reasonably priced than comparable parts for a modern truck. Other
than major overhauls (i.e. engine or transmission) many repairs are easy
to do, there is a lot of room to work under the hood, and a good shop will
charge accordingly.
When considering a prospect, the buyer should be wary of these
items:
1. Originality... has the truck been unprofessionally modified in
such a way that adversely effects handling or performance? Is the interior
in good original condition, or has it been restored as original? Are
aftermarket items added to the truck period correct? Have holes been cut
in the dash for after market sound equipment?
2. Mechanical Condition... are all major components i.e. engine,
transmission, drive-train, front end, brakes serviceable? A truck with
components in need of work would not automatically disqualify it, but cost
of repairs should be factored in to negotiated selling price.
3. Bodywork and Rust... has the truck been in a severe accident to
the point where major body components such as frame and undercarriage have
been straightened or incorrectly repaired? What is the condition of door
panels, fenders, quarter panels, hood, emblems etc.?
While these are 35+ year old trucks, and some amount of rust or body
repair can be anticipated, stay away from trucks that have had extensive,
poorly done repairs or are total rust buckets!
Also be aware that some Ford trucks have been rebadged as Mercury's,
check the VIN number. From 1946 to 1966 you can tell by the VIN code, 1967
and 1968 models are the hardest to tell if they are rebadged.
Trucks
that have spent their lives in dry climates such as the American Southwest
are often found as original examples with little rust.
Important Terms:
Original ... the very same
part i.e. engine block, fender , paint , seat fabric that came from the
factory in the year the truck was made, un-repaired or refinished in its
lifetime. If the part has been repaired and/or refinished (painted or
chromed) and the work was done as to duplicate the look, size, color, and
operation of the factory made part it is "restored as original".
Restored... you will often
hear someone point to a classic truck and ask with enthusiasm "is it
restored?" Strictly speaking, a restored truck is a perfect #1 condition
show truck. Every part on the truck has been replaced with a
freshly manufactured aftermarket part (or NOS, new old stock, part) or the
component refinished (painted or chromed) and/or professionally repaired
to factory new tolerances, or the truck has been sitting in the twilight
zone. Most #2 and #3 condition trucks are a combination of restored as
original and good, presentable, operable original components.
Show truck or show quality...
strictly speaking, a national class "concourse" show truck is a #1 or
strong #2 condition truck with every part excellent original or restored
as original, i.e. down to the factory decal that tells you how to operate
the jack. These trucks compete with other trucks of the same model and are
rarely driven. After being on the road for more than a short distance,
they are professionally cleaned inside and out, and put back into storage.
Informal...
"show
trucks" are very presentable with few obvious flaws to the casual
observer. The trucks are driven on a regular basis. They might have wear
comparable to what you would find on a 6 year old "new" truck, i.e. small
parking lot door dings, carpet showing some wear or soil, etc. They might
compete in informal local shows and judged alongside a variety of other
makes and models. These are #2 to #3 condition trucks.
| Value Explanations: |
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a
completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle
showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are
not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent
condition. Note: This value does not represent a
"100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be
in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging
and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated
facility. |
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older
restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely
operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and
serviceable inside and out. |
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing
only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior
would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be
a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most
usable "as-is".
Note: This value does not represent a "parts car". |

Click To check what it's worth.
(Please note: the price guides do not have Mercury
Trucks listed. You could look up Ford trucks and add a 10 to 20 percentage to to what the
guide has, for the Mercury.)
The Gold Book Price Guide
Why is the asking or selling price so much higher than the Value
Guides?
1. AUCTION PRICE: Auctions are, to get two determined and flush
bidders wanting the same truck. The results can be way over the auction
house or value guide estimates.
2. ASKING PRICES: Especially from dealers will usually be
higher. Asking prices are not selling prices.
Hemmings and the local
paper are full of ads that sometimes run for months, with hopelessly
optimistic asking prices. Many of these high prices are based on what the
person has "invested" in the truck and its restoration. These costs have little bearing
on market value.
3. ORIGINALITY: Completely original and well-documented
trucks
have sometimes found a market well above predicted values.
4. MILEAGE: For Collector
trucks is not very important. Condition
is the over riding determinant of value. Mileage may be part of evaluating
condition, as for example, a documented low mileage original truck. But
many collector trucks have been restored in the past and in many instances the
odometers are set back to zero after a "Body-Off" complete nut and bolt
restoration. In many cases it is impossible to get documentation of
mileage, and true mileage is unknown.
Collector Truck Condition Guide:
CONDITION:
The most important determinate of
value is condition. Every truck must be placed in the right condition
category. The most common problem is placing a truck in the next highest
category. To a non-marque expert, an excellent truck can easily be mistaken
for a show truck. The difference is in subtle and expensive details of
originality. Both may have the same level of attractiveness to the
untrained eye. Similarly the vast majority of trucks at shows are "good" but
from 20 feet away can easily be mis-classified as excellent. Be sure the
vehicle is properly matched with the price levels as described.
- SHOW -
A recent restoration, or exceptionally
rare well preserved original, of National show quality, rarely driven,
usually trailered. Would be judged at 95 points or better at the National
level by recognized marque experts. For a truck to be ranked in the show
category it needs to have been judged to that standard in a National Show.
Just because it is advertised as a body-off, perfect 100-point
restoration, doesn't make it true. Only certification from a National
show, using "originality" criteria can put a truck in the show category. A
perfect 100 point National Show Certified truck may bring even higher
prices.
- EXCELLENT - A restored or extremely well
preserved original, driven or rare occasions with care, complete and fully
functional, a 90 to 95 point truck. Would be a winner at many regional
meets.
- GOOD -
Well maintained original or an earlier
restoration showing normal wear and aging, presentable, drivable, complete
and fully functional. Most "nice" trucks are in this category.
- FAIR -
Essentially complete and
functional. Missing no major parts. Suitable for restoration. Paint,
chrome and bodywork showing age. Minor body or chassis rust. Drives, but
engine, brakes, transmission not perfect.
PARTS
TRUCKS: Incomplete, non-running, or
"parts trucks" are valued based on the worth of the parts, these are
sometimes classified as #6.
On the standard numerical grading system, Show = 1, Excellent = 2,
Good = 3, and Fair = 4
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